CMC Weekly Hike News
12/15/04
__________________________________________________________________________________
Looking Ahead....
All Day Saturday & Sunday
ALL DAY No. A0404-276 Dec. 19 AT: Streets Gap to Big Bald 8:00 AM Hike 9, Drive 70, 2000 ft. ascent, Rated A-A Tommie Boston 828-686-5029 (828-273-2638 from 7:15–8:00 AM on day of hike) tambee2@aol.com Big Bald is one of the crown jewels of our section of the AT, with views of the Blacks, Smokies and other ranges in WNC and Tennessee. The first 0.6 miles climbs up to Streets Gap from the Tennessee side, then follows the AT to Big Bald. If we’re lucky, the forest will be coated with beautiful rime ice. Topos: Sams Gap, Bald Creek
SKI TRIP Dec. 17-20 Carroll Koepplinger 828-667-0723 carrollkoepp@cs.com Carroll will lead a ski trip to Snowshoe Ski Resort in West Virginia, a seven-hour drive. Plans are to leave Friday morning (time to be determined) and return Monday Dec. 20. Contact Carroll for more information. Those wishing to go on the trip must contact him by Dec. 1 so he can make arrangements.
All-day hikes submitted by Bruce Bente 692-0116, bbente@cytechusa.com . Driving distance is round-trip from Asheville. All Saturday and Sunday hikes assemble at Westgate Shopping Center near I-240 UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED.
Half Day Sunday
HALF DAY No. H0404-299 Dec. 19 Christmas Party Hike Noon Hike 4-5, Drive 50, Rated C-C Diane Hankins, 828-298-2870 (before 9 PM) Note early start time. A leisurely paced annual hike. Bring a little gift (wrapped, please) and receive one too. Where we go will depend on the weather. Only meeting place: Ingles Parking lot across from Biltmore Square Mall on NC 191 off I-26. Suitable for anyone over 10 years of age. (Those under 18 MUST be accompanied by an adult.)
Half Day hikes submitted by Paula Robbins 828-687-1651 paularww@bellsouth.net and Pat Elias 828-281-3253 peliasy@aol.com . Leaders: Mail please mail your sign-up sheets. Meet at Westgate unless otherwise noted.
All Day Wednesday
WEDNESDAY No. W0404-409 Dec. 15 Jones Gap/El Lieutenant loop 8:00 AM Hike 10, Drive 80, 1650 ft. ascent, Rated A-AA Ann Gleason 828-859-9387 cowbonetail@yahoo.com Hikers to form carpools at Westgate and meet leader at the Cracker Barrel parking lot (north side) next to Upward Rd., at exit 53 of I 26, at 8:30 AM. Additional meeting place: Jones Gap St. Pk. At 9:00 AM. NOTE: $2 fee per person for park entry. Starting at Jones Gap State Park, we will hike up the Jones Gap Trail along the Middle Saluda River, then the Bill Kimball Trail up through the boulders and forest, climbing over the granite face of El Lieutenant. From there, we continue on the Kimball Trail, walk a very short portion of US 276 to our return loop on the Tom Miller and Jones Gap Trails. Topos: Cleveland, Table Rock; also trail map of Mountain Bridge Wilderness and Recreation Area.
Post Hike Report: We had 7 good hikers show up, braving the cold snap. The day was clear, windless and cold but perfect for hiking and we had Jones Gap Park to ourselves. Everyone was peeling jackets and layers off after the first few miles of gradual ascent up the Jones Gap Trail. The steep ascent and climb around the face and up through the rocks of the granite cliff face called El Lieutenant was dramatic, with great views across the Gap into North Carolina . The heavy fall rains had us crossing a dozen or more streams and rivulets and the recent freeze kept the ground from turning to mud. We climbed 2000 feet from the valley floor to the ridge of over El Lieutenant where we had a warm sunny lunch spot on the ridge, with views towards the back of the Ceasars Head Ridge to the south and towards Shining Rock to the north. From there we hiked upward another 200 feet along the ridge, then steeply downward back into the Gap for the 5 miles return trip along the beautiful Saluda River and past two waterfalls down the Jones Gap Trail to the car.
WEDNESDAY No. W0404-410 Dec. 22 Young’s Ridge Trail 9:00 AM Hike 4.5, Drive 50, rated C-B Diane Hankins, 828-298-2870 (before 9 PM) Only meeting place: Oteen Ingles (near VA hospital on Tunnel Rd.) parking lot at the post office flag pole. A leisurely paced up and back hike from Old Fort picnic area; possibly a short trip to Andrews Geyser after the hike. Suitable for anyone over 10 years old (those under 18 MUST be accompanied by adult).
Wednesday Hikes are submitted by Paula McNabb, 828- 274-0057 gcmcnabb@charter.net and Ann Gleason, 828-859-9387, cowbonetail@yahoo.com . The meeting place for each hike will be designated by the hike leader and will appear in the hike description. Driving mileage will be listed, round trip, from the first designated meeting place.
_________________________________________________________________________
Looking Back......
All Day Saturday & Sunday
ALL DAY No. A0404-277 Dec. 12 Bent Creek Loop #2 8:30 AM Hike 9-10, Drive 20, 1600’ ascent, Rated A-A Ruth Hartzler 828-251-0886 ruthmtn@aol.com P400 Note later starting time. A nice Bent Creek loop, starting at the Hardtimes trailhead. We’ll hike part of the MST, to the Lower Sidehill Trail, past Lake Powhatan. A great close-in, cool weather hike. Topos: Dunsmore Mtn., Skyland; also Nat’l. Geographic Pisgah Ranger District map
Post Hike Report: Bent Creek is a great place for a close-in winter hike, with a number of trails, many unmarked, that offer a variety of loop options. There is a new Forest Service Bent Creek map that is available for free at the kiosk shortly before the Hardtimes Trailhead. Not all the trails are shown, so I was fortunate to have someone familiar with the area, Tom B., plan the hike and scout it with me. Of course, the hike included some bushwhacking. For all these reasons, several hikers participated to learn more about the Bent Creek area.
Eight hikers without Christmas responsibilities gathered at Westgate for the short drive to the Hardtimes Trailhead. Even at 8:30 AM, parking was getting tight. We started down the access road bundled up (oops! “layered”) against the chilling December breeze. Most were armed with maps and coffee cups (with coffee!). This clearly was not going to be an AA-paced hike.
We crossed the cement bridge onto the Homestead Loop and shortly turned up an unnamed trail to the South Ridge Road. After several yards on the road, we turned up another unnamed trail. Some in the CMC would like to have this trail named the Stambaugh Trail or Barton Trail. At the MST, we headed south to Sleepy Gap for a snack. We continued on the MST over Truckwheel Mt. to Long Branch. There was a lot of putting-on and taking-off layers, depending on whether we were climbing or coasting, in the shade or sun. As we hit our stride, conversation turned to favorite topics, like romance on the trail, especially since one of our members is writing an article about cupid and hiking. And there was a lot of map reading.
After lunch at Long Branch, we bushwhacked down to South Ridge Road, then onto Bent Creek Gap Road to the Lower Sidehill Trail. Since we were looping back around an open bowl, the view through the trees included the terrain we had covered on the first half of the hike. When we stopped for a snack break, all the hikers sat comfortably lined-up on a log, looking like a row of sparrows perched on a telephone wire.
We maneuvered the interconnected roads and trails around Lake Powatton, meeting outdoor lovers along the way -- cyclers, dog walkers with dogs of all shapes and personalities, parents with baby strollers, and old friends (Elizabeth and Heinz). We ended back on the Homestead Loop, having enjoyed a relaxing jaunt and the comfortable feeling of hiking with old friends. Ruth
Half Day Sunday
HALF DAY No. H0404-102 Dec. 12 Coontree Loop 1:30 PM Hike 3.7, Drive 70, Rated C-C Paula Robbins, 828-281-3253 paularww@bellsouth.net P400 After a fairly steep up-hill climb, we will hike along a ridge on the Bennett Gap Trail, with some good views at this time of year. The down-hill portion goes along the side of a pretty creek. Second meeting place: Pisgah Forest Ranger Station off Route 276 at 1:45 PM.
Post Hike Report: The leader of this hike, faced a dilemma when she discovered a typo in the description of this hike in Let’s Go. Instead of meeting at 1 PM at Westgate, the description said 1:30---too late to complete the hike safely before dark. However, the second meeting place, the Ranger Station, was listed at 1:45. Fortunately, Boyd Brasington kindly agreed to meet hikers at Westgate and take them on a nearby shorter hike, but no one showed up. Paula met four hikers at the Ranger Station, and the group enjoyed a pleasant and uneventful hike under partly cloudy skies and little wind, ending at 4:40, comfortably before dark. The views along the ridge were beautiful, and all enjoyed the wintry stillness far from the holiday season clamor. Paula Robbins
All Day Wednesday
WEDNESDAY No. W0404-408 Dec. 8 South Mills River Loop 8:00 AM Hike 9, Drive 30, rated A-C Greg Goodman 828-684-9703 P400 Hikers to form carpools at Westgate and meet leader at Pisgah Ranger Station on US 276 at 8:30 AM. We take the South Mills River trail to Wolf Ford and on to Squirrel Gap and Horse Cove, then the trail to Funnel top Road and back to the cars.
WEDNESDAY No. W0404-377 Dec. 1 Bent Creek Ramble to Sleepy Gap 9:00 AM Hike 7-8, Drive 20, Rated B-C Gerry McNabb, 274-0057 gcmcnabb@charter.net P400 An easy hike from the Bent Creek Rd parking area on several trails in the Lake Powhatan area. If trail conditions allow, we’ll climb the Stambaugh Trail to Sleepy Gap at the Parkway and return in a loop.
Post Hike Report: If I do this hike 6-mile again, I would have it leaving at 9:30 instead of 9. After winding our way from the Hardtimes Trailhead Parking area, we found ourselves at Sleep Gap neither sleepy or hungry. It was only 11 a.m. But, we ate anyway, on the lee side of the grassy slope to escape the 24-35 mph winds that battered us throughout the morning. Rain had been predicted and only 12 were on the hike. As it turned out, the weather cleared that morning and it was a beautiful day after all. We had a cumulative elevation gain of some 1100 feet and returned to the cars at 1:30 p.m. Gerry
HikingNews....
_____________________________________________________________
Christmas Day hike
What are you doing on Christmas Day? Let's start a new tradition. If you want to skip the relatives and the 4,000 calory meal, come hiking. Tom Bindrim is leading an 8 mile hike with about 1100 feet of altitude gain, suitable for everyone. We will meet at Westgate at 9 A.M. on Christmas morning. An early dinner afterwards, for those who want it. Please, if you are planning to come, let me know - Danny Bernstein (236-0192 danny@hikertohiker.org
Snow News is Good News!
Winter Trails® Day will be January 8, 2005 at more than 100 locations around the country. The event, now in its 10th year, offers people the chance to try snowshoeing and cross country skiing, and to discover the great fitness and social benefits with these easy-to-learn winter sports. Winter Trails is a program of American Hiking Society and SnowSports Industries America and is a part of SIA’s Winter Feels Good. Log on to www.WinterTrails.org to find an event near you!
Orange You Glad You Look Good in Orange?
We all enjoy walking off the holiday pie on a beautiful autumn hike when the air is crisp but do be aware that hunting season may now be open in your neck of the woods. Check with your state’s Department of Natural Resources or Dept. of Fish & Wildlife for specific dates.
Across much of our country rifle season opened after Thanksgiving, so be sure to wear “hunter orange” when hiking through wooded areas. Wearing an orange hat, vest, and/or pack cover can help alert hunters to your presence and increase your level of safety. Having that same orange item in your pack even when it’s not hunting season is helpful if you’re ever lost and need to get found or want to mark a tree when going off-trail for a spell. It doesn’t need to be high-tech; it doesn’t need to be expensive; it just needs to be high-visibility orange.
NYC and DC Adventure Travel Events
Just in time to kick off the new year and make those next adventure-travel vacation plans, American Hiking Society will be exhibiting at the Adventures in Travel Expos in both New York City and Washington, DC, to help you find one that’s just right for you. The New York show is the weekend of January 14-16 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center. The Washington, D.C show is the weekend of January 28-30 and is at the Washington Convention Center. Public hours for both shows are Saturday from 10-6 and Sunday from 11-4.
The Expo’s 500 exhibitors will feature over 70 seminars, personal appearances and book signings by well-known adventurers and explorers, practical demonstrations by outfitters and leading photographers, and activities such as rock climbing walls and adventure courses.
Adventures in Travel is proud to support American Hiking and is offering our members a $5 discount on admission. To receive your discounted pass, please log onto www.adventureexpo.com , click on the show you wish to attend and then click on the REGISTER FOR TICKETS icon. Below your name enter the special American Hiking coupon code “NYAHS” for the NYC show or “DCAHS” for the DC show. (These codes go into effect 3-4 weeks prior to each show.) So don’t just sit there...lace up your boots and capture the adventure!
Joe Cirvello’s trip to Nepal, etc. Final revision 12/14/04
Joe Cirvello is on an extended trip around the Orient, and has been sending occasional e-mails describing his trip. The following items are from his e-mails.
10-12 Departure from GSP to Kathmandu, Nepal, via Atlanta, Los Angeles, Hong Kong and Bangkok.
e-mail of 11-5:
Hello everyone! Am now in hotel in Kathmandu. I finished my 15 day trek yesterday and took the world's most exciting plane ride to Kathmandu. It takes off downhill high in the mtns. on a short airstrip, and soars into space heading towards a mtn. like jumping off on a hang glider.
The trek in the Everest region (Khumbu) was much harder than I anticipated because of altitude. I wonder if Ray Sanow found it as difficult to hike at those altitudes as I did. I quickly learned that one must put one foot in front of the other in a very slow and deliberate manner. The body isn't getting adequate oxygen and you simply must go very slowly. And you don't get very far before you begin hearing and seeing the Rescue Helicopters taking away people with Acute Mtn. Sickness, which causes pulmonary or cerebral edema and can kill you if you don't descend. People were being affected at around 12000 ft. From then on, I was seeing the helicopters daily. It costs about $2000 for a rescue, and your normal health insurance doesn't cover it. I was lucky and had no altitude sickness, but I did get the common "Khumbu Cough" and still have it. Met trekkers from many countries, but not many from USA, and most are with groups.
The beauty of the mtns. and valleys takes your breath away, like the altitude, but everyone gets tired of going to sleep and waking up in a tiny, freezing cubicle; going to bathroom in a tiny freezing outhouse with a hole in the floor; wearing dirty, smelly clothes every day; and not having a shower for a couple of weeks (because of the cold). It gets old fast.
I'm glad I did it for the beauty, but there were many times when I could barely make my legs move up and up and up, and I kept wondering why I was doing it. But I made it up to 18,222 ft.!! And had spectacular views! And I must have seen a ton of Yak poop and pee along the trails. I should mention that the porters that most groups use are amazing in their ability to carry incredible loads, some-times with only flip-flops on their feet, and they pass you with ease.........and they are just skinny little guys!
I was extremely fortunate to be in the mtns. during a major annual festival at a famous Buddhist monastery. I altered my plans in order to get there in time, and it was a lifetime experience.....hope my slides turn out!
Am now taking a few days to relax in Kathmandu..... among the hordes who want to sell me something. The hot shower was heavenly, I got my smelly clothes cleaned, and I am WARM! Next I will go to a different part of Nepal, where I hope I do not encounter the Maoists, and when I am ready, I will go to India and leave Bombay on Nov. 26 for Bangkok/Cambodia, then to Hong Kong, and will be back in NC Dec. 14.
e-mail of 11-6:
Yesterday I went to a famous place here in Kathmandu and watched human bodies being put on a funeral pyre and cremated along a sacred river that runs down into the Ganges. It is a strange experience that I cannot describe.
Tomorrow I am going to a city called Pokhara for a couple of days, then down into India where I expect to be hassled to death.
e-mail of 11-8:
Wednesday I am leaving Pokhara to go to India and my first stop will be the Taj Mahal....of course! Getting there from here is going to be a bit of an adventure, and am hoping all my connections work out. After that I’ll play it by ear.
e-mail of 11-14:
Hi........left Nepal a few days ago; two bumpy, crowded bus trips, a night in a mosquito-infested room (began taking Malaria med. prior to leaving Nepal) followed by the Train Ride From Hell, which lasted 15 hours. On the train you sleep on a plastic covered bench with no cover or pillow, and after dark it became surprisingly cold. Of course, locals brought blankets and pillows. So I had to wear every-thing I had left (mailed back most stuff after trekking) and try to improvise a pillow. Fortunately, I brought a padlock with me and there is a place under the bench to which you can lock your bag. The train was due to arrive in Agra, India at 5 a.m., and of course, it's up to you to wake up in time to get off the train.....and with all the noise, you cannot hear an alarm if you have one. If not for my earplugs, I would not have gotten ANY sleep. Met a nice guy from Nepal who offered to wake me in time to debark. Turned out that train didn't arrive until after 8a.m.
At station, Tourist Info Office closed. Outside, I was swamped by Rickshaw guys. Anyway, I got to a cheap hotel with a rooftop place to eat with terrific views of the Taj Mahal......my reason to be here. Spent a few hours there and it is exquisite!! Am learning the ropes here in India and enjoying it.....so far. Tomorrow I catch bus to Jaipur.
e-mail of 11-15:
Some things I wanted to mention but forgot........at the train station in India men are sleeping on the floor and cows are wandering around on the platform, since they are sacred they go where they want.....and plop where they want. Outside the station there was a place with open air urinals, no concealment at all. Here in Agra, in the old section where I am staying, cows are strolling on every street, with an occasional pig, and the streets are jammed with motorscooters, motorcycles, pedal rickshaws, motorized rickshaws, bicycles, you name it. They all drive like maniacs, and horns blow continuously.
I happen to be in Agra during a major festival called Diwali, which goes on for about 5 days, and the major purpose seems to be to explode as many kinds of fireworks as you can, every minute. And since there is apparently no law about fireworks, many of them sound like mortor shells exploding near your feet. Periodically, I check to see if my eardrums are bleeding. The people love it though, and last night when I got back to town after dark, the whole city was lit up just like an American town at Xmas (I mean with Xmas lights).
I have long ago learned the importance of always carrying toilet paper, and that the rolls with Chinese writing on them are nearly useless; also they have imitation perforations, which I didn't think possible, so they will NOT tear on the perforations. Also a good idea to carry a flashlight because the power is always going off.
One last thing, but a very nice one. Since the emperor built the Taj Mahal as a memorial to his love for his dead wife, someone described the Taj as: "A resplendent, immortal teardrop on the cheek of time."
e-mail of 11-18:
Am now in a village called Pushkar. Came here because the guidebook told of the annual "Camel Fair" here and called it one of the incredible sights of the world, which can only be seen here and on the correct date. By luck, or Karma, I happened to be in the area and so I got to see it this morning. First I hiked up a small mountain for a wonderful view of Pushkar and the lake it surrounds. Then went down and over to the camels. It is a gathering of hundreds of camels to be sold or traded. I walked into the middle of it and was the only Westerner, because it was still a little early for the tour groups. This part of India is desert, and so I was walking in sand. I tried talking to some of the camel owners/traders, but no English. So I just walked, stopped and watched, and walked some more. It was a fascinating experience!
Other tidbits: a couple of days after I left Kathmandu, the Maoist insurgents exploded their biggest bomb yet in that city! Soldiers boarded my bus a couple of times looking for Maoists. And while in Agra I debated going to New Delhi but decided to skip it cause of crowds/pollution etc. and then read that there was a stampede of people at the Delhi main railroad station because hordes of people were trying to get trains home for a holiday......3 or 4 people trampled to death.
Young Indians call me "Uncle" apparently due to my grey beard and age. I kind of enjoy it.
Indian food is terrific!!!!! Have been gaining weight since I stopped trekking, but really enjoying the different foods..........and am finding solace and comfort every day in chocolate.......
Just got my bus ticket and will leave for Udaipur tomorrow (Friday). Am enjoying hearing from those who feel like writing...........
e-mail of 11-25:
Have had difficulty finding any computers lately. Am now in Bangkok airport and will fly to Cambodia this afternoon. They are now trying to locate my checked bag! Been up since 1a.m. for a 5 a.m. flight from Bombay to here. In Cambodia will give another update, assuming a computer is available. Happy Thanksgiving? Lost track of all that....
e-mail of 12-5:
Shortly after arriving in Cambodia, on 11/26, I had a momentary lapse of caution and my travelers checks and credit cards were stolen. For the next 3 days I went nuts trying to deal with it. It's nearly impossible to accomplish anything here. Phones are terrible, internet is usually maddeningly slow or not working, and English is difficult . AmEx and MasterCard have collect phone nos. but Cambodia doesn't allow collect calls. And I could not find a way of reporting these thefts via AmEx or Mcard websites. Apparently, it must be done only by phone, and in a country where the phones don't work, like here, you're out of luck. After hours of trying, over a couple of days, I finally got credit card cancelled, and travelers checks stopped. However, contrary to AmEx claims, I won't be able to get reimbursed by them in Cambodia. And some of my monthly bills in the US are automatic-ally paid by credit card......which is now cancelled. By luck, the thief did not get my passport or plane tickets!
Now I have to mention something almost unbelievable. Three days after being robbed, I got into a conversation at my little hotel with a woman from the U.S. and when she heard that I was robbed she whipped out a $100 bill and insisted that I take it.....and she didn't even know my name! So there are still some good people around. And she isn't wealthy. I was stunned, and don't know if I would do the same in her place. And due to the fact that it just happened to occur over Thanksgiving weekend, I had to wait 4 days for money to arrive. My only reason to be here was to satisfy a dream of many years to see Angkor Wat (a few miles away) and I couldn't go there because I couldn't afford the entrance fee of $20 for one day......until Vicky loaned me the hundred, then I got a 7 day pass for $60, because there is an incredible amount to see in Angkor besides Angkor Wat.
So many things have happened since I last had a chance to email about the camel trading in India. If I can, and email is working, I'll tell you more. I will go to Bangkok Dec. 8 and and e-mail etc may be better (or worse!) there.
e-mail of 12-8:
I had a ticket to fly to Bangkok today but changed plans after realizing all the hassles I would have to deal with just for one day of sightseeing in Bangkok before my scheduled departure from that airport to Hong Kong Dec. 10. So will leave Cambodia Dec. 10 and catch plane to H.K. If I hadn't lost 4 days due to the theft, I would have spent them in Thailand.
But I have a nice room here for $5/night, with ceiling fan and cold shower, which is good for me since I must look at these beautiful Cambodian women all day! Temp. in the day gets up around 90-95, but is pleasantly cool in the evening and morning. I have not seen rain since before leaving US on Oct. 12.
Most places I stayed at in India had bucket showers: they give you a bucket of hot water and you kneel naked on the bathroom floor, which is tiled and has a drain, and then you scoop water in a small bucket, add some cold water, and pour it over yourself. I got pretty good at it. Also, I have had many rooms where the bathroom had a showerhead on the wall near the toilet, but no enclosure of any kind so you take a shower while standing on the bathroom floor.....which is my current arrange-ment. Also in India, one night I got to attend a wedding and big feast afterward! Fun, interesting, and got to enjoy many, many different kinds of Indian food.
More stuff I may have already told you: for the past 7 days I have been riding all over the countryside on the back of a motorcycle visiting the many temples of Angkor. Generally, you find a driver, of which there are hundreds competing for your $, and you agree on a daily fee. Then he drops you at temples of your choice, picks you up later, and you proceed to the next. At entrance to each temple you must run a gauntlet of people selling stuff...."Sir, buy postcards? Sir, buy guide book? Sir, buy T-shirt? Sir, buy cold drink? etc. etc.....over and over.
If you don't want the excitement of riding on the back of a motorcycle, you can ride in an auto-rickshaw, or a taxi, and pay more.
Sometimes, we would ride out in the country surrounded by rice paddies and people working in them. But twice we rode on the Road From Hell, dusty dirt, with huge holes and rollercoasters. I had to keep my teeth clenched to keep them from breaking, and I tried to use my arms as shock absorbers because of my concern about what was happening to my spine with all the bouncing. Of course, my driver had a helmet. When we began riding in deep sand and threatening to go down any moment, I decided that I did not want to end up in a hospital in Cambodia with fractures and brain damage, so I told him to stop and then said I wanted his helmet, and got it. We skidded a few times in the sand, but never went down......he was probably worried about his head.
In traffic here and in India and Nepal, I wear my bandanna across my face to help filter all the engine exhaust I am breathing, and I probably look like a bank robber; a gas mask would really be handy. You occasionally see natives wearing something resembling a surgical mask, and instead of bank robbers, they look like surgeons rushing to the operating room.
Except for the remote places, wherever you go to visit temples at Angkor, there are hordes of Japanese tour groups. It really looks like there can't possibly be anyone left in Japan. But you can find quiet spots to sit amid the ruins in the jungle, hearing sounds of strange birds, and wonder about the lives of the people who built these temples with their wonderful carvings.
Many of the young, backpack-carrying tourists like to try to dress in the local clothing (white women wearing Saris, etc.) which is funny because the younger natives DON'T dress like that anymore, they dress like Westerners.
In India, I frequently entered mosques and was required to remove sandals, thus having to walk around barefoot, sometimes in dirt, so I began carrying what I called Mosque Socks to wear.
Learned that the rate of Tuberculosis here is now up to 50%, so am glad that was one of my immuni-zations prior to leaving the US. Malaria cases are up, but I am taking daily medication......which I will have to continue for 7 weeks after returning to US! Actually, though, there are very few mosquitoes now. But they must be a real problem in the monsoon season.
Hard for me to believe that when I step off the plane in the US next week, it will be winter!! Now am in shorts, t-shirts, and sandals every day.
e-mail of 12/11:
Hi........arrived in Hong Kong last night and driving thru downtown Kowloon it was so lit up that it looked comparable to about 5 times more signs, etc. than Times Square in NY!!!
Took the Star Ferry to Hong Kong island, with great views. Am now on top of Victoria Peak .......major tourist attraction on Hong Kong island. Don't know when or where I'll find another computer, there don't seem to be many.
Fun trying to figure out how to get around.......and get back to YWCA when I am done. Fortunately, many younger people seem to speak some English and there are many signs in both Chinese and English......it would still be nice to have a friend with me though.
Am constantly surprised to hear Xmas carols everywhere, and see decorated trees! Looks like the Chinese are really into Xmas!!!!!!!!
e-mail of 12-12:
I am having a great time and really enjoying Hong Kong! It's a terrific city, spotless and with many beautiful sights and interesting things to do, and the people are friendly and helpful......and many speak some English. The buses and subway are very easy to use, and the doubledecker bus is fun to ride. A dramatic change from Cambodia!!!!
Yesterday, by luck, I heard about a light show at night along the water in the bay. I went to a promenade area at the tip of Kowloon peninsula and watched along with a crowd of people. Across the bay, on Hong Kong island many of the skyscrapers were decorated with lights outlining figures like Santa Claus, etc. and many searchlights were flashing across the night sky while boats, also decorated with lights, were cruising around on the water. It was a beautiful sight.
This morning I took the famous (but brief) ferry ride to Hong Kong island and then a great bus ride to Stanley. Then went to the beach at Repulse Bay, then back on the ferry to Kowloon to catch a regular Sunday afternoon Kung Fu demonstration in Kowloon Park. It is actually for the natives, not a tourist thing, and it was interesting and entertaining. Then I came across the street to this coffee shop, similar to Starbucks, which offers free internet access.
Tomorrow I am signed up for the Heritage bus tour to more remote areas, and will fly out for home at 11:30 p.m. tomorrow (Monday) night for the loooong journey home. Now I am 13 hours ahead of your time, so I am living in the future! But will go back in time when I cross the Int. Date Line, which seems so weird.
I do my best to avoid wasting $ on junk while I am traveling, and it's just more to carry, but today I gave in. I found a daypack with some writing on the back and when I read it, I could not resist it. This is what it says......"Postroad. Its your real temptation. Its light is exactly you of magic power." Postroad is the brand name.
It will be good to see everyone again, and probably a little strange to be back in the US.
12-13 Departure from Hong Kong to Greenville-Spartanburg via Los Angeles and Atlanta. 13 hour time change!